 |
Categories |
 |
|
 |
Manufacturers |
|
|
|
|
|
Quick Find |
|
|
|
Information |
|
|
|
| Seed Sowing Calendar |
 |
|
|
The aim of this website section is a rough guide on what to do in the
vegetable patch on a monthly basis, The heart of a gardening year is a work
plan, twelve months of gardening which begins in March when the ground becomes
workable after frosts, the climate varies considerably depending on where you
are so there is no hard and fast rule when you begin to sow vegetable seeds or
transplant seedlings outside, it all comes down to common sense.
January
Harvest sprouting broccoli, Brussels sprouts and leeks.
Stake or earth up any Brussels sprouts stalks that look leggy and vulnerable to
wind rock. Pick the biggest sprouts from low down the stalks first.
Lift Jerusalem artichoke tubers for cooking.
Parsnips, Swede, celeriac and turnips can still be harvested, if this has not
been done already. Parsnips improve in flavour with a touch of frost, but other
root vegetables are better harvested earlier in the winter, so that they are
safe from frost and easily accessible from the kitchen. They can be stored in
the shed, or in a shallow trench, covered to protect it from frost.
Start forcing rhubarb. Place a large bucket, dustbin or forcing jar over the
crown to encourage the fresh, pink shoots to form in the darkness. A few shovels
of manure, straw and poultry manure pellets thrown over the top will create
extra warmth to speed up the process.
Chicory and seakale can be forced as well. Dig up selected chicory roots, pot
them up, and position them in a dark warm place (10-13°C/50-55°F), with an
upturned pot over them. The tasty chicons will appear in three to six weeks.
Seakale is best forced outside at seasonal temperatures, with an upturned pot or
cardboard box/tube over the top to exclude the light.
In mild areas, sow broad beans in pots, placing them in a cold frame or unheated
greenhouse. These will be ready for planting out in spring.
Other crops can also be germinated in pots on the windowsill, and then grown on
in the greenhouse for planting out in February. This should result in early
crops next year. Lettuces, summer brassicas (e.g. cabbages and cauliflowers),
radishes, tiny round carrots, spinach, salad onions and turnips are all
suitable.
Onions from seed need a long growing season, and you could sow them now in a
heated propagator, for planting out in March. This is how exhibition growers
manage to get large bulbs for shows.
The mildest south-west regions of the country could get away with sowing seed
directly into the ground - if the winter is mild, and the ground has been
covered for the previous few weeks. Tunnel cloches or polythene sheeting are
ideal covers. Lettuces, radishes, early peas, broad beans, spinach and salad
onions could work from such early sowings.
Plan a rotation system for vegetable plots to ensure the same crops are not
grown in the same beds year after year to help prevent disease build-up.
Clear remaining spent crops from the vegetable garden.
If you have not done so already, dig over and incorporate soil improvers into
vacant areas of the vegetable plot. You can cover these areas with thick
polythene to keep the soil dry and make it easier to work in the spring -
particularly useful for heavy clay soils. Clear polythene will increase the soil
temperature, enabling earlier sowings in spring. Black polythene and thick
carpet will suppress weeds.
If the weather is reliably dry and frosty, then heavy soils can benefit from
being left exposed - the frosts will kill pests and improve soil structure by
the continual freezing and thawing of soil water.
Save egg boxes as they will come in handy for potato chitting next month. Source
your seed potatoes if you have not already done so.
When gardening on wet soils work from a plank of wood, rather than treading on
the bed, to avoid compacting the soil.
Improve the drainage of heavy soils by working in lots of organic matter. Grit
will only be effective when used in conjunction with organic matter.
Pest & disease watch
Place mice controls near stored vegetables.
Regularly check stores and remove any rotting or mouldy specimens.
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, and new sowings under cloches, are
protected from mice.
Slugs can still pose a threat, and slug controls are necessary now, as always.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of
netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable
crops.
Pick yellowing leaves off Brussels sprouts and other brassicas promptly, to
prevent spread of grey mould and brassica downy mildew.
Remove all remaining plant debris from the vegetable plot. Do not compost any
diseased material such as blight-infected potatoes, onions suffering from white
rot and any crops with rust. Burn or bin the diseased material, or bury it more
than 60cm (24in) deep in the ground.
Digging-over in winter exposes soil pests to frost and bird predators.
February
Cultivate and prepare seedbeds, covering them with clear polythene, cloches or
fleece to warm up the soil before sowing.
Finish any major digging and weeding if you have not done so already.
Plan a crop rotation system for your vegetable plot, to ensure that the same
crops are not grown in the same beds year after year. This helps to prevent
disease build up.
You can rake in lime this month - if you have acid soil, or have had previous
problems with club root, and wish to grow brassicas - but remember that the
ground will not be ready for planting out until April or May, as an interval of
two months is needed between liming and planting.
Continue to harvest any remaining winter crops (e.g. broccoli, Brussels sprouts,
leeks, parsnips, swede, celeriac and turnip).
Continue to force chicory and seakale. Dig up selected chicory roots, pot them
up, and position them in a dark, warm place (10-13°C; 50-55°F), with an upturned
pot over them to exclude light. The tasty chicons will appear in three to six
weeks. Seakale is best forced outside at seasonal temperatures, with an upturned
pot or cardboard box/tube over the top to exclude the light.
Continue to force rhubarb before it comes into natural growth towards the end of
February, or March. Place a large bucket, dustbin or forcing jar over the crown
to encourage the fresh, pink shoots to form in the darkness. A few shovels of
manure, straw and poultry manure pellets thrown over the top will create extra
warmth to speed up the process.
From mid-February onwards sow greenhouse-grown tomatoes and cucumbers. Use a
heated propagator or warm room at 21°C (70°F) to encourage germination, and then
keep them potted on at a lower temperature of 15-18°C (60-65°F).
Unpack mail ordered onion sets and shallots, and keep them in a dry, airy place
- perhaps in net bags - until you're ready for planting.
Chit seed potato tubers as soon as they arrive. Stand them upright with the rose
end (having most shoots) facing upwards in a light, cool but frost-free place.
Old egg boxes make excellent holders.
Order asparagus crowns from suppliers.
Prepare new asparagus beds by weeding, digging over thoroughly, and
incorporating lots of organic matter. Additional grit, together with lots of
organic matter, may improve conditions on very heavy soils.
Plant out garlic and shallots in light soils only; heavy soils need longer to
warm up.
If you have light (sandy) soil and live in a mild part of the UK, you can sow
broad beans, carrots, parsnips, early beetroot, bulb onions, lettuces, radish,
peas, spinach and summer cabbage outside under cloches, in soil that has been
covered for a few weeks to pre-warm it. If the weather in your area has been
very cold, then wait until late February. If you have heavy (clay) soil, it is
best to wait until March. Seeds can always be sown in pots or modules, under
cover, if you are eager to get started.
Peas can be sown in the greenhouse in old (but clean) guttering that has had
drainage holes drilled in the bottom. Starting them under cover gives them a
head start. When the seedlings are ready for planting out, the whole row can be
gently pushed out of the guttering, into a ready prepared drill in the vegetable
garden.
Plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers. They can act as a screen for the shed or
compost bin, as they get quite tall.
Feed any spring cabbages that have been standing all winter. High nitrogen feeds
such as Growmore or pelleted poultry manure are fine.
When spring cabbages are ready to harvest, cut them off the stem and make a
cross in the top of the cut stem. Sometimes mini-cabbages, or ‘spring greens’
will grow from the cut stems.
If you are very keen, you could prepare your runner bean supports and trenches
for sowing (in May) or planting out (in June). This will save you time later.
Try to avoid digging in wet weather, but if gardening on top of wet soil, work
from a plank of wood, to avoid treading on the bed and compacting the soil.
Pest & disease watch
Place mice controls near stored vegetables.
Regularly check stores and remove any rotting or mouldy specimens.
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, and new sowings under cloches, are
protected from mice.
Slugs can still pose a threat and slug controls are necessary now, as always.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of
netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable
crops.
Pick yellowing leaves off Brussels sprouts and other brassicas promptly, to
prevent spread of grey mould and brassica downy mildew.
Attracting wildlife to your garden can help to control pest problems for the
coming year.
March
Cultivate and prepare seedbeds, covering them with clear polythene or fleece to
warm up the soil before sowing.
Chit early and maincrop potatoes. In mild regions, earlies are planted out in
the second half of the month. In colder regions, it is better to wait until
April.
Plant shallots, garlic and onion sets.
Plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers.
Plant asparagus crowns. A deep, friable, well-drained soil with plenty of
organic matter incorporated is ideal.
Many vegetable crops can be sown this month, especially in mild areas with light
soil, including: broad beans, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, bulb onions,
lettuces, radish, peas, spinach, summer cabbage, salad leaves, leeks, Swiss
chard, kohl rabi, turnip and summer cauliflower. Be guided by the weather, and
sow only if conditions are suitable (as per guidance on the seed packets).
Fleece and polythene can be used to protect early outdoor sowings. Many
vegetables can bolt if sown outside too early without protection (beetroot being
an example). A greenhouse or conservatory is useful in all but the very mildest
areas with the lightest soils, to start seeds off - hardening off and
transplanting the young plants into the vegetable garden later in the spring.
Sweet peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, aubergines, celery, salads and globe
artichokes can all be sown in a frost-free greenhouse. Artichokes and celery can
be transplanted outside later in the spring. Tomatoes can either remain in the
greenhouse or be taken outside from early summer onwards. Peppers, cucumbers and
aubergines do best kept under cover. Salad crops vary - it is best to check the
temperature requirements cited on the seed packets.
Feed any spring cabbages that have been standing all winter. Use high nitrogen
feeds such as Growmore or pelleted poultry manure.
Continue to force chicory and seakale. Dig up selected chicory roots, pot them
up, and position them in a dark warm place (10-13°C/50-55°F), with an upturned
light-proof pot over them. The tasty chicons will appear in three to six weeks.
Seakale is best forced outside at seasonal temperatures, with an upturned pot or
cardboard box/tube over the top to exclude the light.
Uncover forced rhubarb crowns and let them grow naturally.
Put supports in place for peas.
Continue to harvest Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, spring onions, leeks, winter
salads, spring cauliflower and cabbage, Brussels sprouts, chicory, rhubarb, kale
and sprouting broccoli. Gardeners in suitable areas, who have got off to an
early start by using fleece to warm the soil, could already be harvesting a new
crop of radishes.
When spring cabbages are ready to harvest, cut them off the stem and make a
cross in the top of the cut stem. Sometimes mini-cabbages, or ‘spring greens’
will grow from the cut stems.
Feed crops which have been left sitting over winter (e.g. lettuces and
brassicas). A balanced fertiliser such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone would
be best, or a high nitrogen choice such as poultry manure. Avoid tomato feeds
(which have high potassium levels) for green, leafy crops. There is enough
potassium in balanced feeds to keep them going.
You could prepare your runner bean supports and trenches for sowing (in May) or
planting out (in June). This will save you time later.
Celery trenches can also be prepared, but for planting very soon (depending on
the weather in your area). Plenty of organic matter, traditionally well-rotted
manure, is key to improving both water retention and drainage simultaneously,
and in helping to ensure the success of the crop.
Try to avoid digging in wet weather, but if gardening on top of wet soil, work
from a plank of wood, to avoid treading on the bed and compacting the soil.
Start regular hoeing, to keep annual weeds under control. Deal with perennial
weeds as appropriate, either digging them out or using weed killer.
Pest & disease watch
Place mice controls near stored vegetables.
Regularly check stores and remove any rotting or mouldy specimens.
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, and new sowings under cloches, are
protected from mice.
Slugs pose a threat, and slug controls are necessary now, as always.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of
netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable
crops.
Pick yellowing leaves off Brussels sprouts and other brassicas promptly, to
prevent spread of grey mould and brassica downy mildew.
Attracting wildlife to your garden can help to control pest problems for the
coming year.
Insects start to emerge as temperatures increase. A mild spring can see pest
problems developing earlier than usual. Cabbage caterpillars have occasionally
been spotted in early spring, and even in late winter (when they may have
hatched from eggs laid the previous autumn and survived a mild winter). This is
unusual, but with current tends in climate change, is worth bearing in mind in
years with mild spring weather.
April
Chit and plant out second early potatoes in the first half of the month and
maincrop potatoes in the second half. Potatoes can be planted in deep drills or
in individual planting holes, with 5cm of soil mounded over the top.
Alternatively, plant them through slits in black polythene mulch.
If you live in a very mild area, and got off to an early start with your
potatoes last month, they may be ready for earthing up to exclude light and
prevent the tubers going green. Start earthing up as the shoots grow, covering
them entirely if frosts threaten, and finishing when the earthed up ridge is
about 25cm high. Potatoes grown under black polythene do not need earthing up,
as the polythene excludes enough light. If frost threatens, then cover the
shoots with horticultural fleece to protect them.
Sow beetroot, carrots, Swiss chard, summer cauliflower, kohl rabi, lettuce,
leeks, radish, turnip, spring and pickling onions, peas and perpetual spinach in
well-prepared soil.
Why not try sowing some unusual vegetables such as salsify, Hamburg parsley, or
scorzonera, both root vegetables favoured by the Victorians, and still eaten a
lot on the Continent.
Broad beans grown in pots can now be transplanted into the garden.
Plant shallots, garlic and onion sets.
Plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers.
Plant asparagus crowns. A deep, friable, well-drained soil with plenty of
organic matter incorporated is ideal.
Pea plants should be supported with sticks, twigs, green support mesh, or wire
netting from the garden centre.
In the second half of the month (wait until early May in cold areas) you can sow
marrows, courgettes, pumpkins and squash in a heated glasshouse at a germination
temperature of 16°C (61°F).
In very mild areas you may be able to sow dwarf French beans and sweet corn
outside under cloches or fleece, but in cooler areas it is best to wait until
May.
Thin out rows of seedlings as soon as they are large enough to be handled.
Sow a seed bed of brassicas to provide transplants of sprouting broccoli,
cauliflowers and cabbages that will be ready for planting out to their final
position in June or July, and for harvesting in autumn/winter. It is rather late
for sowing Brussels sprouts, but you can still buy young plants from the garden
centre.
Fleece and polythene can be used to protect early outdoor sowings. Many
vegetables can bolt if sown outside too early without protection (beetroot being
an example). A greenhouse or conservatory is useful in all but the very mildest
areas with the lightest soils, to start seeds off, hardening off and
transplanting the young plants into the vegetable garden later in the spring.
Sweet peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, aubergines, celery, salads and globe
artichokes can all be sown in a frost-free greenhouse. Artichokes and celery can
be transplanted outside later in the spring. Tomatoes germinate best at 22°C
(72°F), and can either remain in the greenhouse or go outside from early summer
onwards. Peppers, cucumbers and aubergines do best kept under cover throughout
their life.
Pot up tomato seedlings when they develop true leaves above the more rounded
seed leaves. After growing on in small pots, they can be planted into larger
pots or growing-bags.
If you have still been forcing rhubarb plants under forcing jars, take the last
crop of pale stems, feed with general fertiliser, and leave them uncovered to
grow without cropping for the rest of the year.
Continue to force witloof chicory and seakale. Dig up selected chicory roots,
pot them up, and position them in a dark warm place (10-13°C; 50-55°F), with an
upturned pot over them. The tasty chicons will appear in three to six weeks.
Seakale is best forced outside at seasonal temperatures, with an upturned pot or
cardboard box/tube over the top to exclude the light.
Plant out onions sown from seed earlier in the spring. Don’t use ground used for
onions in the last three years.
Finish harvesting Jerusalem artichokes, leeks, winter salads, chicory, kale and
sprouting broccoli.
Start to harvest spring onions, radishes, spring cauliflowers, spring cabbages
and un-forced rhubarb.
Control weeds by hoeing between rows during dry weather.
You could prepare your runner bean supports and trenches for sowing (in May) or
planting out (in June). This will save you time later.
Pest & disease watch
Place mice controls near stored vegetables.
Clear out and clean your vegetable store, to reduce rots and moulds before the
influx of new crops.
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, and new sowings under cloches, are
protected from mice.
Slugs pose a threat, and slug controls are necessary now, as always.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of
netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable
crops.
Pick yellowing leaves off brassicas promptly, to prevent spread of grey mould
and brassica downy mildew. Do not compost such material, but put it in the
rubbish, burn it, or bury it deeper than 60cm (24in) depth.
Damping off of seedlings can be a problem with sowings both outside and in
modules or containers. Clean equipment and, where necessary, use of fungicides
(e.g. Bio Cheshunt Compound) can help to control this problem.
Attracting wildlife to your garden can help to control pest problems for the
coming year.
Insects start to emerge as temperatures increase. A mild spring can see pest
problems developing earlier than usual. Current trends in climate change lead to
consistently warmer temperatures; it is worth bearing this in mind.
Flea beetle on brassicas can be a problem this month, and you may need to
control them with an insecticide or exclude them with horticultural fleece.
May
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable. Harvest spears from established plants for
six to eight weeks from May into the early summer. Do not harvest spears from
crowns less than two years old.
Harvest spring lettuce, spring cabbage, salad onions, salad leaves, beetroot and
radishes as they mature. You can continue with successional sowing of salad
crops, to ensure an even supply over the season.
Sow French and runner beans, squash, cucumbers and pumpkin seeds directly into
prepared beds outside - in colder regions you should wait until the end of the
month. Be alert to late frosts (for which a covering of horticultural fleece
should provide sufficient protection). French beans are best sown in traditional
rows at 15-22cm (6-9in) spacing.
Sweetcorn works best sown in blocks, at 45cm (18in) spacing, with two seeds per
hole. The strongest seedling can be selected later, and you will have the safety
of knowing there is a fall-back in case of one seedling being devoured by slugs
(link to advice) or similar.
Runner beans benefit from well-prepared ground with lots of well-rotted manure
and organic matter dug in. They need to be planted alongside suitable supports
(often a frame or wigwam of bamboo canes tied together with twine) for the
shoots to twine around and grow upwards.
Sow cauliflowers and purple sprouting broccoli for harvesting next winter.
Try sowing some unusual vegetables such as kohl rabi (like a large white
above-ground turnip), scorzonera and salsify (both of which produce edible
roots, which are boiled and peeled like parsnip and have been said to taste a
bit like oysters).
Brussels sprouts for next winter should now be ready for transplanting after
early or mid-spring sowing. The gaps between them can be used for short-term
‘catch-crops’ like radishes or gem lettuces, as they will take time to grow into
their recommended spacing requirement.
Plant out artichokes that were previously sown under cover. They are tall
handsome plants, and the steamed unopened flower buds are considered a delicacy.
They can be grown as perennials (in which case they need 90cm spacing), or as
biennials (45cm spacing is sufficient).
After all risk of frost has passed, plant out tomatoes, courgettes and pumpkins
that were previously sown under cover.
Self-blanching celery can also be planted out towards the end of the month. A
well-prepared site with lots of organic matter dug in is essential. Planting
celery in blocks aids the blanching process, as does placing a strip of plastic
around the edge of the block to exclude some light and further improve the pale
colour and sweetness of the blanched stems.
It is still possible to sow vegetables indoors, especially in colder regions.
This will shorten the growing time needed to reach maturity and harvest. Young
plants can be planted out once conditions are suitable
Ridge cucumbers can be sown indoors now, for planting out in early June. Two
seeds per pot work well, then selecting the most vigorous seedling from each pot
for growing on and planting out.
Earth up potatoes (unless planted through black plastic) when the shoots are
23cm (9in) high, in order to prevent the new tubers going green. Earthing-up is
the drawing up of soil around the stems of the plants, leaving just 5cm (2in) of
shoot uncovered so that the plant has enough foliage to continue growing. You
can also grow potatoes in containers.
Leeks can either be sown in rows outside in a traditional seedbed, or indoors
(earlier) in modular trays, with five or six seeds per module. Either way, they
need transplanting when they reach about 10cm (4in) in height. A large dibber
(or old spade handle) is used to make holes (about 7cm deep) for individual
plants in their final positions. Drop each leek into a hole, and then fill the
holes with water. For module-grown leeks, each cluster is transplanted as one
unit, the hole then being filled with water in the same way.
Witloof chicory can be sown this month, to have some ready for forcing next
winter (when other salads can be scarce). Sow in drills directly outside.
Start to remove side shoots from cordon tomatoes that were started off early
under cover. The side shoots develop in the leaf axils (i.e. between the stem
and leaf), and if allowed to develop will sap the energy of the plant and reduce
the quality of the yield. Sideshoots can be pulled off with a thumb and
forefinger. It is now too late to sow new tomatoes, as they will not have time
to ripen over our British summer.
Thin out sowings of Florence fennel made last month. The final spacing should be
20cm (8in), with 45cm (1.5ft) between each row.
Strings stretched along the tops of broad bean plants can support them, and
prevent them ‘flopping’ once pods develop.
Peas need staking with pea sticks, netting, or pruned twigs from the garden.
Control weeds to prevent them competing for moisture and nutrients. Hoe
regularly between rows on hot days to make sure the weeds dry up and die without
re-rooting. weedkiller is usually inappropriate as there is a high risk of it
killing or damaging your crops as well as killing the weeds.
Pest & disease watch
Keep an eye out for asparagus beetles, which are black, red and yellow, and
their cremy black larvae. Pick them off by hand.
Watch for the small holes flea beetles make on brassica seedlings. Water plants
well to help them continue growing despite the pest damage.
Pinch out the tips of broad beans once they start to flower. This helps to
discourage blackfly, which otherwise can decimate tender new growth.
Pests can be kept off a wide range of crops, carrot fly on carrots being a good
example, by covering them with a fine woven plastic mesh like Enviromesh. Just
make sure that the corners are tucked in or buried to prevent them breaching
this defence.
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, new sowings under cloches, and any
stored vegetables, are well protected from mice.
Slugs pose a threat, and slug controls are necessary now, as always.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of
netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable
crops.
Pick yellowing leaves off brassicas promptly, to prevent spread of grey mould
and brassica downy mildew. Do not compost such material, but put it in the
rubbish, burn it, or bury it deeper than 60cm (24in) depth.
Damping off of seedlings can be a problem with sowings both outside and in
modules or containers. Clean equipment and, where necessary, use of fungicides
(e.g. Bio Cheshunt Compound) can help to control this problem
June
Harvest indoor cucumbers regularly to encourage more fruit to set.
Early peas may be ready for harvest. Cut off the tops of the plants, leaving the
roots in the ground to conserve valuable nutrients to the soil. Peas and other
legumes can ‘fix’ nitrogen from the air.
Harvest salad onions, salad leaves, beetroot and radishes as they mature.
Harvest rhubarb stems until the end of the month, but leave crowns ‘forced’
earlier in the year to recover.
Continue with successional sowing of salad crops, beetroot, Chinese cabbage, pak
choi and radish, to ensure an even supply over the season. In hot weather, leafy
salad crops may do better when sown in partially shady sites. Hot dry weather
can lead to bitter tasting leaves.
Overwintered Japanese onions can be harvested when the tops start to fall over.
Leave the bulbs to dry in a sunny spot outside, or in a airy shed if rain is
forecast. This will allow the skins to harden, and the bulbs to store better.
Early potatoes may begin to be ready for harvesting. Many are ready when the
plants come into flower. Take care when digging them up to insert your fork some
distance away and to lift the soil carefully. Otherwise you may pierce and
damage the tubers.
If you have started off crops early under cover, and live in a mild part of the
country you could be harvesting early crops of courgettes, small summer
squashes, sweetcorn, calabrese, pak choi, kohl rabi, French and broad beans and
carrots. Spring or early summer cabbages and cauliflowers planted last year will
also be ready for cutting.
Continue to earth-up potatoes not ready for harvest (unless planted through
black plastic). Earthing-up is the drawing up of soil around the stems of the
plants, leaving just 5cm (2in) of shoot uncovered so that the plant has enough
foliage to continue growing. Potatoes can also be grown in containers.
Plant out tomatoes if this has not already been done. Train them up canes or
string, and remove sideshoots from cordon tomatoes. These sideshoots develop in
the leaf axils (i.e. between the stem and leaf), and if allowed to develop will
sap the energy of the plant and reduce the quality of the yield. Small
sideshoots can easily be pulled off with a thumb and forefinger, and can be
easily rooted to obtain more plants. When four flower trusses have formed, pinch
out the growing point just above the highest truss.
Celeriac and self-blanching celery can be planted out this month. A
well-prepared site with lots of organic matter dug in is essential. Planting
celery in blocks aids the blanching process, as does placing a strip of plastic
around the edge of the block to exclude some light and further improve the pale
colour and sweetness of the blanched stems.
Outdoor ridge cucumbers can be planted out this month. They benefit from a site
that has been enriched with lots of organic matter to help retain water. Pinch
out the tip of the plant when it has made six pairs of leaves, to encourage
sideshoot and cucumber formation. Feed regularly with a liquid tomato feed,
following the instructions on the packet.
Sow French, broad and runner beans, peas, squash, sweetcorn, and outdoor
cucumbers directly into prepared beds outside.
French beans are best sown in traditional rows, 45cm (18in) apart, at 15-22cm
(6-9in) spacing.
Sweetcorn works best planted in blocks, at 45cm (18in) spacing, with two seeds
per hole. The strongest seedling can be selected later, and you will have the
safety of knowing there is a fall-back in case of slug damage. Any seeds sown
earlier under cover can now be planted out into the same block pattern.
Runner beans benefit from well-prepared ground with lots of well-rotted manure
and organic matter dug in. They need to be planted alongside suitable supports
(often a frame or wigwam of bamboo canes tied together with twine) for the
shoots to twine around and grow upwards.
Strings stretched along the sides of broad bean plants will support them and
prevent them flopping once pods develop.
Peas need staking with pea sticks, netting, or pruned twigs from the garden.
Courgettes, marrows and pumpkins can still be sown outdoors in early June.
Encourage good fruit set by hand pollinating. Push the male flowers
(distinguished by the lack of swollen stem/young fruit behind the petals)
lightly into the female flowers.
Plant out other vegetables sown indoors earlier in the season, including winter
brassicas and sweet peppers. Peppers can only be planted out when all risk of
frost has passed. The gaps between winter brassica plants can be used for
quick-maturing catch crops, perhaps radishes or gem lettuces, as brassicas take
time to grow into their eventual spacing.
Although most winter brassicas need to be sown earlier in the season, you can
still sow turnips now for an autumn crop, as they are best lifted while still
young and sweet. Sow them in drills 15cm (6in) apart, and thin them as soon as
they are large enough to handle, to leave one plant every 10cm (4in).
Plant out artichokes that were previously sown under cover. They are tall
handsome plants, and the steamed unopened flower buds are considered a delicacy.
They can be grown as perennials (in which case they need 90cm spacing), or as
biennials (45cm spacing is sufficient).
Witloof chicory can be sown this month, to be ready for forcing next winter
(when other salads are scarce). Sow in drills directly outside.
Harvest spring lettuce, spring cabbage, salad onions and radishes. Continue with
successional sowings of these and other salad crops. Herb crops such as basil,
coriander and parsley can also be extended with successional sowings.
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable. Harvest spears from established plants for
six to eight weeks from May into the early summer. Do not harvest spears from
crowns less than two years old. After harvest and flowering, it is a good idea
to feed them so that they have sufficient energy for next year’s crop.
Control weeds to prevent them competing for moisture and nutrients. Hoe
regularly between rows on hot days to make sure the weeds dry up and die without
re-rooting. weedkiller is usually inappropriate as there is a high risk of it
killing or damaging your crops as well as killing the weeds.
Pest & disease watch
Keep an eye out for asparagus beetles, which are black, red and yellow, and
their creamy-black larvae. Pick them off stems and foliage by hand.
Look out for blossom end rot on tomatoes and peppers. This is not actually a
disease, but the symptom of nutrient, calcium, deficiency that occurs when water
supply is erratic. Regular watering and appropriate growing media should prevent
too much damage.
Pinch out the top of broad beans once the lowest flowers have set. This will
help prevent aphid attack.
Watch for the small holes flea beetles make on brassica seedlings. Water well to
help them continue to grow, despite the pest damage.
Cover young brassica crops with nets to protect them from pigeons.
Keep carrot fly off carrots by covering them with a fine woven plastic mesh like
Enviromesh. Just make sure that the corners are well tucked in or buried to
prevent them breaching this defence.
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, new sowings under cloches, and any
stored vegetables, are well protected from mice.
Slugs pose a threat, and slug controls are necessary now, as always.
Pick yellowing leaves off brassicas promptly, to prevent spread of grey mould
and brassica downy mildew. Do not compost such material, but put it in the
rubbish, burn it, or bury it deeper than 60cm (24in) dept
Damping off of seedlings can be a problem with sowings both outside and in
modules or containers. Clean equipment and, where necessary, use of fungicides
(e.g. Bio Cheshunt Compound) can help to control this problem.
July
There's lots to harvest in the vegetable patch, including spinach, peas, beets,
carrots, salads, potatoes and globe artichokes; shallots and spring-planted
garlic may be ready as well.
Ensure all vegetables get a regular, consistent supply of water, using rainwater
or recycled grey water wherever possible . This will aid healthy development,
and help to avoid diseases, disorders and bolting.
Continue to hoe off weeds in dry weather. Done in wet weather, the weeds are
liable to re-root.
Sow spring cabbage, turnips, Oriental vegetables, chicory, fennel, and
autumn/winter salads such as lamb’s lettuce.
Carrots can still be sown, but beware carrot fly when thinning existing
seedlings
Last chance to sow French and runner beans (south of England only).
Plant out leeks and brassicas for a winter supply, if not yet done.
Summer cauliflowers may need shading to prevent the curds scorching in bright
sun.
Pick courgettes before they become marrows.
Over wintered onions can be lifted and used.
Don't forget to stop cordon tomatoes by removing the main shoot. Look for the
leaf that's above the fourth truss and cut it off here. This should ensure that
all the fruits ripen by the end of the season. Bush tomatoes can be left to
their own devices.
Climbing beans may also need stopping, to maximise cropping on existing
sideshoots. Stop them when they reach the tops of their supports.
Beans need sufficient watering to help the seed pods set.
Remember to pick your bean and pea pods as they mature, to stop them becoming
tough and stringy later in the summer.
Climbing or cordon-grown vegetables may need checking to ensure they are tied in
sufficiently to supports. Branches can easily snap off as the fruits mature.
Leaves shading larger fruits can be removed to maximise sun exposure for
ripening.
Any non self-blanching celery cultivars will need earthing up (with a protective
collar of paper between the stems and the soil). Endive cultivars can be
blanched by covering with an up-turned pot (with the drainage holes blocked off)
filled with straw to exclude the light. Blanching makes these vegetables sweeter
and tender.
Herbs can be harvested to keep the young shoots coming throughout the summer.
Excess pickings can be dried for use throughout the year.
Pest & disease watch
Watch out for early leaf rots caused by potato blight and tomato blight.
Stunted potato plants should be lifted to check the roots for the tiny nodules
of potato cyst eelworm.
Look out for asparagus beetle. Pick off the scarlet adult beetles and
creamy-black larvae from the stems and foliage.
Keep an early eye out for the sunken brown patches of blossom end rot on
tomatoes, especially if the weather has been dry. It can be a sign of irregular
watering. Pale, haloed ‘ghost spots’ can be avoided by not splashing the fruits
when watering tomatoes.
August
In the south of England you can still sow quick maturing salad crops such as
summer lettuce, radish, rocket, sorrel, chicory and fennel.
Continue to sow spring cabbage, turnips, Oriental vegetables and overwintering
onions, in the south of England.
Irregular watering can lead to problems with blossom end rot in tomatoes,
splitting of root vegetables and flower abortion in peas and beans. Help prevent
this by watering well during dry spells. We do not advise using grey household
water on edible crops, but stored rainwater from a water butt is ideal.
Weeds can also compete with vegetables for water, and act as hosts for pests and
diseases, so should be removed regularly by hoeing.
Lift onions, shallots and garlic when ready. Plants should be harvested when the
necks start to turn brown and papery, and bend over naturally. Avoid actively
bending the necks, as this can result in disease. Once harvested, let the tops
dry until they rustle like brown paper, and then remove them.
Regularly pick fast-maturing vegetables such as French beans, runner beans,
courgettes, cucumbers and tomatoes, to prevent stringiness or toughness, and to
encourage further cropping. Excess pickings can be frozen.
Finish harvesting second early potatoes, especially if it turns wet, as slugs
will become active.
Harvest sweetcorn as it ripens. Push a fingernail into the kernel when the
tassels at the end of the cob start to shrivel and brown. If the liquid is milky
it indicates they are ready.
Marrows should be raised off the ground slightly, to prevent them rotting from
contact with the soil. Some older leaves can be removed, if necessary, to
maximise sun upon the fruit.
Continue earthing up celery, putting a layer of paper between the stems and the
soil.
Take care when thinning out any late-sown carrot seedlings to prevent the scent
released attracting carrot fly females. To protect them from carrot fly use
fleece or enviromesh coverings.
Sow green manures such as crimson clover and Italian ryegrass to act as a soil
improver and to cover bare areas. When dug in, they conserve nutrients and
improve soil texture.
Alternatively, after clearing old crops, place black plastic over bare areas of
ground to suppress weed growth.
Pest & disease watch
Keep up with potato blight control on outdoor tomatoes and potatoes to prevent
further infection of the crop. Cut off the haulms (tops) of blighted potatoes
and burn them, or put them in the dustbin. The tubers can still be harvested.
Potato powdery scab is also prevalent at this time of year.
Watch tomatoes for blossom end rot, ghost spot, blotchy ripening and greenback.
Problems with ripening can be caused by heat damage, lack of feeding or water,
or by a genetic tendency in some varieties. Tomato viruses are another problem.
Look out for the caterpillars and excrement of the pea moth, and for fungal
spots on bean and pea pods and leaves.
Remove any sweetcorn cobs affected by smut, with swollen, grey or brown kernels
that burst to release powdery fungal spores.
Carrot fly is still about.
Check stored onions for softness and the grey or black mould of neck rot.
Onion eelworm can cause swelling and distortion of onion plants, and rotting of
stored bulbs. Crop rotation is the best preventative.
September
Continue to sow vegetables for over wintering, to mature next spring: turnip,
spinach, winter lettuce, Oriental vegetables and seed of overwintering onions,
both salad and bulb types.
Plant over wintering onion sets in late September.
Spring cabbages that were sown last month are probably ready for planting out.
Cover them with horticultural fleece or netting to stop the pigeons shredding
them.
Dig up potatoes before slug damage becomes a problem. Leave them out to dry for
two to three hours before storing. Only store sound tubers in paper sacks or
boxes.
Regularly pick fast maturing vegetables, such as French beans, runner beans,
courgettes, cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes, to prevent them becoming stringy,
tough or bitter and to encourage further crops.
Remaining outdoor tomatoes should be picked by the end of the month and ripened
indoors. The whole truss can be cut off to allow the fruits to ripen ‘on the
vine’, perhaps under a cloche or on a windowsill. Any green fruits can be used
in chutneys.
Aubergines may still be cropping in the greenhouse. Pick them once the fruits
have coloured, but before the skins start to wrinkle.
Lift onions and shallots once the foliage has started to die back. Do not be
tempted to bend over the tops by hand as this can reduce their effective storage
time. Allow them to dry on the soil surface if weather permits, otherwise dry in
a well-ventilated shed and store in a moisture-free place. Thick-necked onions
should be used rather than stored, as they may be prone to rots.
In cold districts, carrots, beetroot and turnip are best lifted and stored for
use over the winter. Only store intact roots. Parsnips should be left in, as
they taste better once frosted.
Harvest sweetcorn as it becomes ripe. Push a fingernail into the kernel when the
tassels at the end of the cob start to shrivel and brown. If the liquid looks
milky, they are ready.
Any remaining globe artichokes should be harvested now, before the buds start to
open.
Marrows, pumpkins and squashes may be ready for harvesting. Leave them in the
sun, or in a greenhouse/garage, to let the skins harden and dry off, before
storing them in a cool, dry, dark place.
When asparagus foliage turns brown, it is time to cut it down. Take care of the
spines, and give the plants a good mulch afterwards. Any new asparagus beds can
be prepared at the same time, adding grit if your soil is poorly drained (e.g.
heavy clay).
Celery can be earthed-up for the final time this month, leaving just a tuft of
foliage sticking out of the trench or collar in order to blanch the stems.
Self-blanching types are less hardy, and should be harvested before the first
frosts. Trench cultivars can be left in the ground, although do have some
horticultural fleece or straw handy to throw over the tops if severe frosts are
forecast in your area. Beware celery rash when handling the plants, especially
in sunny weather - gloves and long sleeves are necessary.
Irregular watering can lead to problems with blossom end rot on tomatoes, splits
in root vegetables and pea and bean flowers aborting. Help prevent this by
watering during dry spells. Recycled grey water is not recommended for edible
crops, but stored rainwater is ideal.
Keep up too with watering winter squash and pumpkins: this will prevent their
growth from being checked. Use stored rainwater wherever possible
Sow green manures, such as mustard and Italian ryegrass, to prevent autumn weeds
establishing and to act as a soil improver once dug in during winter or spring.
Alternatively, place black plastic over bare ground after clearing old crops to
suppress weed growth.
Pest & disease watch
Keep up with potato blight and tomato blight control. Outdoor tomatoes are more
vulnerable than greenhouse ones. Blighted potato haulms can be cut off and
burnt, or placed in the rubbish. The tubers can still be harvested.
Precautionary spraying may be beneficial, if the weather is conducive to fungal
spread; suitable products are Bordeaux Mixture, Dithane 945 and Murphy
Traditional Copper Fungicide.
Potato powdery scab is prevalent in wet weather at this time of year, especially
on clay soils. Dispose of affected tubers and rotate crops to prevent the
problem building up in the soil.
Common scab and other potato skin problems can be prevalent in dry Indian summer
weather, particularly on well-drained sandy soils. Watering is key, and the use
of acidic fertilisers may help if you have alkaline soil (which worsens the
problem).
Be sure to clear debris created when lifting potatoes, and take care not to
damage the haulms. Potato debris left out in wet weather could cause the
development of fungal diseases such as black leg or fluffy grey mould.
October
Harvest pumpkins and squashes when ripe. Leave them in the sun, or in a
greenhouse or garage, to let the skins harden and dry off, before storing them
in a cool, dry, dark place.
Pick the last of the remaining runner beans. Any really late and stringy ones
are better composted than eaten.
Dig up outdoor tomato plants and hang them upside-down in the greenhouse to
allow the fruits to ripen. Any that don’t ripen can be used green in chutneys.
Continue lifting carrots and beetroot, plus any remaining potatoes still
underground in mild areas. Only store healthy, intact roots. Parsnips should be
left in, as they taste better once frosted.
Sow over wintering broad beans in situ (mild regions only). Covering the trench
with fleece or cloches will provide insulation in colder areas, as well as
protection from pigeons.
Carrots and peas can still be sown in cold frames, but only in mild areas.
Plant out spring cabbages if not already done. Remember to net them for
protection from pigeons.
Finish planting autumn onion sets for a crop in early to mid-summer next year.
Garlic can still be planted in mild areas having free-draining soil. Otherwise
it can be started in containers or modules, and planted out when more mature.
Radishes, mustard cress, and winter lettuces can be sown in growing-bags under
glass or on a windowsill; the ideal temperature is 16°C (61°F). Old, used
growing-bags from the previous summer are fine for this, as long as regular
liquid feeds are given. After this second use, they can be emptied over the beds
as a soil improver. (Don’t, however, spread compost used for tomato growing over
your potato beds, as these crops can share many pests and diseases).
Earth up, or add to the cardboard sheath over any remaining trench celery plants
that have not yet had their final top-up. Only a tuft of foliage should show at
the top. In cold areas, the plants may benefit from being covered with fleece
and straw (or bracken, paper, etc.) in case of frost. Self-blanching types are
less hardy, and should be harvested before the first frosts. Beware celery rash
when handling plants, especially in sunny weather - gloves and long sleeves are
necessary.
Chicory (e.g. Witloof), and seakale, can be forced to provide salad leaves into
the winter. The blanched, forced leaves are produced when an upturned pot, for
example, is placed over the plant to block out the light.
The dying tops of Jerusalem artichokes can be cut back to ground level. Tubers
can be cleared from an area of ground if the plant is becoming invasive, as they
will re-grow readily.
Cut back asparagus foliage if not already done last month. Take care of the
spines, and give the plants some mulch afterwards.
Now is a good time to get ahead and prepare new asparagus beds for planting up
in the spring. Plenty of organic matter and grit will help to improve drainage
to the level required by asparagus. A raised bed could be a good investment on
heavy clay soil, to make it more asparagus friendly.
When clearing old pea and bean plants, simply cut off the tops for the compost
heap, and dig the roots into the soil. They return valuable nitrogen to the
earth, acting as a natural fertiliser.
October is a good time for digging over vacant areas of the vegetable plot, as
the approaching cold weather may help to improve the soil structure by breaking
down large clumps into crumbly particles. After digging, any vacant ground can
be covered with black polythene to prevent re-colonisation by weeds, or smearing
of the surface structure by rain-splash (this is known as 'capping').
In the south of England, green manures can still be sown until the middle of the
month. Plants such as field beans, winter tares and Italian ryegrass will
prevent autumn weeds establishing, and will act as a soil improver.
Pest & disease watch
Keep an eye on Brussels sprouts, removing yellowing leaves to prevent grey mould
from becoming troublesome.
Remove all plant debris from the vegetable patch or allotment, to reduce the
spread and the overwintering of disease and pests.
Refrain from composting diseased material, as the temperatures in domestic heaps
may not be sufficient to kill pests and diseases. Burning the waste, burying it
deeply, or placing it in the domestic rubbish are alternatives.
Place mouse controls near your stored vegetables.
Flea beetle can still be a problem until the end of October, so keep nets in
place, but the potential damage caused is unlikely to be as severe as it was in
the spring.
November
Order seed catalogues for next year, if you haven't already done so.
Harvest leeks. They can be heeled in horizontally into a shallow trench outside
the back door, for easy access.
Cauliflowers can be harvested, or left in situ with the leaves snapped and
folded down over the curds to protect them.
Lift and store root crops such as carrots, beetroot, turnips and swedes.
Parsnips can be left in the ground until needed, or lifted and then buried in a
shallow trench for easy access when needed. They taste better when frosted. Make
sure to mark the trench.
Celeriac can also be left in the ground for a bit, but do protect them from the
cold with a thick mulch of straw, bracken, or other suitable material.
If you have Brussels sprouts ready for harvesting, pick the largest sprouts from
the bottom of the stalk first.
Stake any Brussels sprouts stalks that look leggy and vulnerable to wind rock.
Dig up chicory roots to be forced. Pot them up after removing foliage and
position them in a dark warm place. The tasty chicons will appear in three to
six weeks.
Seakale can be forced as well, but is best forced outside. An upturned pot or
cardboard box/tube works well.
You may have other vegetables ready for harvest: Jerusalem artichokes, winter
cabbage, spinach, Swiss chard, kohl rabi and radishes can all still be cropped.
Sow over wintering broad beans (mild areas only) outside or under cloches where
the soil is well drained, or in pots in an unheated greenhouse in cold
districts. Harvests should be marginally earlier than the first spring sowings.
Plant garlic cloves in modules inside a cold frame, or outdoors in mild areas in
its final position (free-draining soils and low rainfall areas only).
Clear late-season debris off the vegetable plots, and dispose of it as advised
below in pest & disease watch.
Clean and store bamboo canes in the shed or other dry place to ensure they're
still in good condition for next year.
Dig over, incorporating well-rotted organic matter if available and weed vacant
areas of the vegetable plot. Once they are fully wetted by winter rain, cover
them with thick black polythene or other opaque covering, and leave them until
next season, when they will be easy to prepare for planting and sowing.
After digging, you may want to mulch.
Winter rye can still be sown as a green manure well into November.
Now is a good time to get ahead and prepare new asparagus beds for planting up
in the spring. Plenty of organic matter and grit will help to improve drainage
to the level required by asparagus. A raised bed could be a good investment on
heavy clay soil, to make it more asparagus friendly.
Pest & disease watch
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, and new sowings under cloches, are
protected from mice. Cloches should be securely closed, and traps, bait, or
ultrasonic devices nearby may be of some help.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of
netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable
crops.
Remove any yellowed leaves on Brussels sprouts and other brassicas. This will
prevent the development of grey mould and brassica downy mildew.
Remove all remaining plant debris from the vegetable plot. Do not compost any
diseased material such as blight-infected potatoes, onions suffering from white
rot and any crops with rust. Burn or bin the diseased material, or bury it very
deeply in the ground.
Digging over the soil in winter exposes soil pests to frost and bird predators.
Frost will help improve soil structure.
Place mouse controls near stored fruit and vegetables.
Regularly check stores and remove rotting and mouldy specimens.
December
Plant shallots and garlic in very mild areas with well-drained soil. Garlic
cloves can be planted in modules in mild areas where the soil is less free
draining.
An old Victorian idea is to make a manure hotbed by piling a mixture of manure
and straw (or leaves), to be rotted over the winter, into an empty compost bin.
This is then covered with a layer of John Innes No 3 compost. A cold frame
placed on top will benefit from the heat generated by the rotting manure, and
this will aid the germination of crops to be started in January for planting
outside in February.
Lift and store root crops such as carrots, beetroot and turnips.
Parsnips can be left in the ground until needed, or lifted and then buried in a
shallow trench for easy access when needed. They taste better when frosted. Make
sure to mark the trench, and to cover it with a protective layer of cardboard if
hard frosts are forecast.
Harvest Brussels sprouts. Pick the largest sprouts from the bottom of the stalk
first.
Stake or earth up any Brussels sprouts stalks that look leggy and vulnerable to
wind rock.
Some of the spring cabbages that were planted out earlier in the autumn can be
used as winter greens (if they are large enough), cutting them before they have
a chance to form hearts next spring.
Lift and store celery - it can be heeled in just outside the back door, for easy
use. It can also be thickly mulched in situ, using straw or bracken held in
place with fleece and hoops of wire, and then lifted when needed.
It isn’t too late to force chicory and seakale. Dig up chicory roots to be
forced. Pot them up and position them in a dark warm place. The tasty chicons
will appear in three to six weeks. Seakale is best forced outside. A light-proof
upturned pot or cardboard box/tube works well.
If you have not done so already, now is the time to dig over and incorporate
soil improvers into vacant areas of the vegetable plot. You can cover these
areas with thick polythene to keep the soil dry and make it easier to work in
the spring - particularly useful for heavy clay soils. Clear polythene will
increase the soil temperature, enabling earlier sowings in spring. Black
polythene will suppress weeds.
Clear late-season debris off the vegetable plots, and dispose of it as advised
below in pest & disease watch.
Clean and store bamboo canes in the shed or other dry place to ensure they're
still in good condition for next year. Broken or rotted ones can be shortened,
where possible, for re-use.
Pest & disease watch
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, and new sowings under cloches, are
protected from mice. Cloches should be securely closed, and traps, bait, or
ultrasonic devices nearby may be of some help.
Place mice controls near stored vegetables as well.
Slugs can still pose a threat, and slug controls are necessary now, as always.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of
netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable
crops.
Pick yellowing leaves off Brussels sprouts and other brassicas promptly, to
prevent spread of grey mould and brassica downy mildew.
Remove all remaining plant debris from the vegetable plot. Do not compost any
diseased material such as blight-infected potatoes, onions suffering from white
rot and any crops with rust. Burn or bin the diseased material, or bury it more
than 60cm (24in) deep in the ground.
Digging-over in winter exposes soil pests to frost and bird predators. Frost
will help improve soil structure.
Attracting wildlife to your garden (see wildlife gardening section) can help to
control pest problems for next year.
Regularly check stored vegetables, removing any rotting or mouldy specimens
|
|
|
|
|
| 0 items |
|
|
|
|
Bestsellers |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Languages |
|
|
|
Currencies |
|
|
|
Paypal Payments |
|
|
|
